GMA Recipe: Ragout Of Chicken Thighs 'a la Nicoise

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Ragout Of Chicken Thighs 'a la Nicoise
From Julia Child
1996

Ingredients

2 or more c. chicken broth (Simmer bones and trimmings for 40 minutes in lightly salted water; strain, and degrease. Or use canned chicken broth.)

2 to 3 tbsps. olive oil

3 medium leeks (white and tender green parts only, quartered lengthwise, washed, and cut into julienne match-stick size)

2 c. sliced onions (slice lengthwise, through the root)

4 large cloves of garlic, smashed, peeled, and minced

4 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded, juiced, cut into strips

2 or more tbsps. tomato paste, as needed for color and taste

salt, pepper, and Italian herb seasoning

8 thighs from fryer-broiler chicken, skinned and boned as previously described

1/4 c. or so fresh minced parsley

Directions

To make the ragout base:
Warm the oil in a heavy 3- to 4-quart casserole or saucepan, stir in the leeks, onions, and garlic and simmer over moderately low heat for 5 minutes or more, until limp. Stir in the tomatoes, salt lightly, add 1/4 tsp. of the herbs, cover, and simmer 10 minutes or until the tomatoes have rendered their juices and the vegetables are tender. Taste very carefully and adjust seasoning, which should be reasonably strong and gutsy. Ahead-of-time note: May be completed 2 days in advance; keep covered and refrigerated.

To finish the ragout:
Salt the chicken meat lightly and bury it in the ragout base. Bring to the simmer, cover, and simmer 5 minutes--the chicken is done when springy rather than squashy to your finger. Taste carefully and correct seasoning. Serves 6. Ahead-of-time note: May be completed in advance and reheated, but be careful not to overcook.

To serve:
Serve the chicken pieces and vegetables over boiled rice or pasta, spooning some of the cooking juices over the meat, and decorating each piece with a big bunch of parsley. Accompaniments: fresh green beans, broccoli, spinach, or a green salad served separately. A young fresh red wine like a Beaujolais, light zinfandel, or a pinot noir.

Thighs And Drumsticks With The Emphasis On Thighs
Drumsticks with thighs attached, that is often my choice at the supermarket. Although it's nice and easy to broil or roast the whole thing, I frequently like to separate the two and roast, broil, or saute' the drumsticks for one meal, and bone out the thighs for another--about the easiest boning job around.

To bone a chicken thigh: Using a paper towel, pull the skin off the thigh, and cut most of the visible fat off the meat--smallish globs of yellow clinging to the flesh. The single thigh bone with its ball joints at either end is in the center of the meat, and shows more clearly on one side than the other. Lay the thigh so the more-easily-seen bone is facing you vertically. With a small sharp knife, cut down through the meat very close against one side of the bone to remove the meat from its other side. (Save skin and bones for making your own chicken broth; see directions in the following recipe.)

You now have two delicious tender pieces of quick-cooking, juicy meat that you can season, dredge lightly in flour, and saute' for a simple snack. Or you can poach them and serve in a salad or sauce, or cut them into strips and add to a chicken soup or the makings of a pot pie. Or, here is a non-caloric Mediterranean treatment with onions, leeks, tomatoes, garlic, and herbs. Amounts: I count three thighs for 2 moderate servings.

Copyright 1995 Julia Child